Quatro Dias a Barcelona (Four Days in Barcelona)

One of the major perks about living in Europe is the ability to travel to other countries quickly and cheaply. Tom and I had been hoping to visit Barcelona ever since we moved to Rome and so, when my plans to run the Rome marathon were derailed by a training injury, it seemed like race weekend would be the perfect time to go.  Of course, in a cruel twist of fate, my plans to avoid the marathon didn't work out quite perfectly since it turned out that the Barcelona marathon was on the same day (and our airport bus literally dropped us off on the race course).  But, luckily, I fell in love with Barcelona so quickly that I hardly had time to feel bad about not getting to run.

Overlook at Montjuic

Perhaps part of the reason that I love Barcelona so much is that it somehow manages to combine the best of all worlds. From a US perspective, it's basically San Diego meets San Francisco meets Washington DC meets Candyland (that last bit will make more sense shortly!).  It's full of beautiful Gothic buildings, but it also has funky looking modern skyscrapers.  It has a hippy/Bohemian vibe, but is still very sophisticated and classy.  It's beach town, but still has a very urban vibe. Because of all of this (and despite the fact that I hear it's completely overrun with tourists in the summer), I'd happily jump at the chance to live there if I could!

Catalonian Flag

Barcelona is also interesting from a cultural standpoint because it's part of Catalonia (an area in the northeast region of Spain).  Catalonians speak Catalan, (as used in the heading of this post), rather than Spanish (although most do speak Spanish as well), fly their own flag, and many regularly assert a desire to secede from Spain.  (We saw one such protest while we were in town.)  The sense of cultural pride is fun to see, but I'd certainly hate to be caught in a Madrid soccer jersey in the streets of Barcelona!

In the four days of our trip we saw and did so many amazing things that it's really not possible to describe it all in one blog post.  However, I'll hit a few of the highlights below and will post more pictures on facebook for those of you who are interested.

1.  Sagrada Familia

The Sagrada Familia From a Distance

When traveling, it's normally a bit of a bummer if one of the sites you plan to see is under construction and surrounded by scaffolding and cranes.

You can't take this view with the Sagrada Familia, though, because this Basilica has been under construction for over 130 years (and likely won't be completed until at least 2026)!  Although a different architect originally undertook the project, Antonio Gaudi took over a couple of years later, and completely reconceptualized the space.  Gaudi is known as the main figure in the Catalonia Modernism movement, and he drew out careful plans for much of the building, knowing full well that it would not be completed during his lifetime.

Nativity Facade

I had a hard time understanding how the project could take so long until I saw the Basilica in person.  "Insane" is probably the best way to describe it.  Even in its uncompleted state (about 60% is finished at this point), the structure is massive.  It basically takes up a city block, and its eight spires are so tall, that you can see them from quite a distance.  When completed, the Basilica will actually have eighteen spires, and the central one (adorned with a huge cross) will be 560 feet high!

But it's not just the size that mandates so much time and energy- it's also the extremely intricate design and statuary covering every centimeter of the building.  Three sides of the building have (or will have) grand facades. The Nativity Facade (which was largely designed by Gaudi himself and built between 1894 and 1930) looks to me like a massive melting candle or a fancy decorated cake.

By contrast, the Passion Facade (which was built in the later part of the 1900s, long after Gaudi's death in 1926) has a much more sleek and angular feel.  The statuary surely accomplishes Gaudi's goal of striking fear into the onlooker, but there is some debate as to whether the modern style of the art is truly reflective of Gaudi's vision.  The third facade, the Glory Facade, is still under construction, and is intended to be the most "striking" of the three (which is frankly hard to imagine after seeing the other two!).

Passion Facade

Of course, the inside of the Basilica is equally crazy and impressive.  An intricate canopy of columns give the interior a natural/woodsy feel, and all of the light pouring through the stained glass windows almost makes you feel as though you're walking around inside of a rainbow.  It was such a strange and unique experience that it's really just not possible to do the place justice in writing.

Inside Sagrada Familia

Unfortunately, it was too windy to take the elevator into the towers the day we were there, but we still had a fantastic time admiring the building (the line to get in moves much quicker than you'd think and, in any case, it's well worth the wait).  However, the  best part is that the fact that it's not finished just gives us a good excuse to go back someday!

2.  Park Guell and Other Gaudi Architecture

Candyland or Park Guell?

Gaudi's influence in Barcelona extends even further than the Sagrada Familia, though.  His distinctive style can be seen in various buildings around town, as well as in Park Guell (pronounced like "Parkway").

Park Guell is situated on a hill on the north side of town.  It was designated as a park space after a planned community project failed.  Before visiting the Sagrada Familia, Tom and I made the pleasant (but uphill) walk over to the park to enjoy its funky Candyland-esque design and to take in the fabulous views of the sea and the city.  The Park was extremely crowded with groups of school children and Swiss tourists (the latter of which wore matching hot green vests and carried hiking poles), but as we climbed higher and higher on the park's many stairways, the tourists did become a bit less numerous.  Unfortunately all of the people made it feel a bit more like a theme park than a nature experience, but we did enjoy visiting such a unique place.

Park Guell

Park Guell

Gaudi Architecture

At other points in our trip, we also had a lot of fun just looking for (and then looking up at) Gaudi's other colorful and whimsical buildings around town (which are incredibly easy to pick out of a lineup). Often they inspire comparisons to food, nature, or the types of themes you might find at a ten year old's birthday party such as "under the sea."  

Even apart from Gaudi, though, Barcelona is generally known for its architecture for good reason.  It really seems like many of the buildings there are more creative and innovative than those in many other parts of the world, and Barcelonians don't seem to have any qualms of mixing drastically different styles of architecture in the same area.  In the end, though, it really works to create an interesting, eclectic urban environment.    

3.  Biking Along the Coast

"Biking" (with the kickstand down, apparently)

On the second day of our trip, Tom and I rented bikes and spent half a day riding north along the sunny coast.

It's funny, after spending our first day and half entirely in the city, I had almost forgotten that Barcelona was on the sea, but once we went just a half mile or so in the opposite direction from our vacation apartment, the scenery completely changed.  Suddenly, instead of small windy streets and Gothic buildings we saw sandy beaches, tons of boats (mostly docked, since it was still a bit chilly for sailing), and bikers, rollerbladers (that sport is still big in Spain, apparently), and joggers galore.  

Downtown

We also rode past the more commercial/downtown center of Barcelona, which many office workers commute to every day.  Here, too, the architecture was especially unique and interesting, and it seemed like we were stopping every few minutes just to take in all of the views.

The highlight of this day, though (possibly the highlight of the whole trip for Tom), was  our discovery of some adult-sized playground equipment along the coast (or, at least, if it wasn't intended for adults, then Barcelonians must really not worry about child safety the way Americans do). Tom and I had a blast climbing up the twenty (or so) foot roped structure and then sliding down the (very fast) slide, before running back to climb up again.  Someone really needs to develop spots like that in the Midwest.  (I guess I'll have to keep that in mind for when the whole lawyering thing gets old.)

A Chilly Day at the Beach

It's true that one general criticism of Barcelona may be that it's a bit lacking in green space.  For a city of its size, the parks are limited (and crowded), and many areas that appear "green" on the map are really just open squares filled with gravel. However, the extensive trail system along the coast does help make up for this, and you do have to hand it to Barcelona for creating many opportunities to get additional exercise (on various pieces of public play and exercise equipment) along the way.

It was much too cold to contemplate a dip in the water, but we did enjoy the fact that the beaches were less crowded than they otherwise would have been.  I have rarely rented a bike when on vacation, but I really think it's something I should be doing more often.  It's such a great way to see a lot more of the city in a limited amount of time.

4.  Montjuic

Olympic Stadium

On our last day, Tom and I hiked up to Montjuic, a hilly area on the west side of town.  Over the years, Barcelona has used this area to hold world-class events, most notably the 1929 World's Fair, and, more recently, the 1992 Summer Olympics.  The area is also home to several museums (none of which we had time to visit, unfortunately), including the National Art Museum of Catalonia.

It was a lot of fun to wander around the Olympic Park and imagine what it must have been like filled with athletes and spectators in '92.  The main square was quite beautiful and contained several water features, as well as the communications tower (which apparently also functions as a sundial).  If I lived in Barcelona, I'd totally run around that area while blasting the "Rocky" theme song on my iPod.  In other ways, though, it was a bit depressing to see that there is now little purpose for much of the space. Much of it seems to regularly sit unused, and some of the facilities are quite neglected.  (As a sad example,  we saw lots of trash floating around the diving pools.)  But, on the whole, our experience there was still a positive one.

Olympic Square

We definitely saved the best for last, though, because the area around the National Art Museum was really spectacular.  The Museum building itself was beautiful, and from it, there were sweeping views to the north of the city.  Unfortunately the large fountain at the bottom of the hill wasn't yet turned on  for the season, but we didn't miss it much with so much else to see.

View from National Art Museum

National Art Museum

Of course, over the course of our trip, we did lots of other fun things, including exploring different neighborhoods, checking out the local markets, visiting other (less grand but still beautiful) churches, and eating tons of delicious non-Italian food.  We also had the opportunity to meet up with an old friend (who just happened to also be vacationing in Barcelona), as well as a family friend (who lives there).  All in all, we had a completely amazing time and already can't wait to go back in 2026 (or whenever they finally finish that crazy church)!

Alla Prossima,
Erin

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Sat. Mar 23:  The weather in Barcelona was similar to how it's been in Rome.  Party cloudy, highs around 60, but still cold enough at times to need a coat of some sort.

Habemus Papam! ("We have a Pope!")

If you had told me ten years ago that I'd be living in Rome in 2013, I'd be surprised, but probably not completely incredulous.  I love travel, fancy myself as somewhat adventurous, and have always wanted to spend some time living abroad.  Despite, this, though, if you had told me that I'd someday be in St. Peter's square for the announcement of a new Pope, I'd never believe you.  I  mean, there have only been three popes in the last thirty five years.  What are the chances?  

Holy Smokes, It's White! (photo from National Geographic)

But we were here!  And it was amazing.  So amazing, in fact, that I wasn't able to wind down and go to sleep until about 2 AM. Here's how it all went down:   

Around 7 PM (after the fourth and final vote of the day), Tom saw white smoke coming out of the chimney on the roof of the Sistine Chapel.  Well, more accurately, he watched it happening live online, got super excited, called me (from his office), and then sent an email out (in Latin, of course) to everyone at the Academy.  He then raced back to our room, where we grabbed our raincoats and umbrellas, and less than five minutes after the smoke appeared, we found ourselves speed-walking with two of our friends down to Saint Peter's Square.  

The Square is only about a 20-25 minute walk from the Academy if you know the "secret way," which involves following the narrow road that runs along the Aurelian Wall.  It was already dark out and sprinkling a bit, but the walk went fast, and we spent the time guessing who the new Pope would be and what name he'd take.  (For the record, none of us guessed correctly.)  Even though we were walking about as fast as we could, we still were passed by several people who were literally running down to the Square in hopes of making it in time to get a good spot and see the new Pope.  

Areal Shot of St. Peter's Square (this photo is a photo of the video screen)

As our friend, Lauren, noted, though, it was very much a "hurry up and wait" sort of situation, because once we got down to the Vatican, not much was actually happening yet.  Still, it was really amazing to just to be in St. Peter's Square for such a momentous occasion.  It took us several minutes to get in (since guards had our normal entrance blocked off), but once we made our way through, it was actually less crowded than we were anticipating.  The rain also had stopped, so we found ourselves a nice spot in the middle of the Square with a view of the Basilica and one of the giant video screens.  We took a few pictures, and then the waiting began.  

The atmosphere was a strange one-  sort of a mix between solemn reflection and pure celebration (the celebration part being almost like how people react after their home team wins the World Series or the Superbowl).  People were smiling, and shouting and laughing, and others were quietly praying.  It was also crazy to see so many cameras.  Anywhere you looked, there literally hundreds of flashes going off at any given moment.  I wasn't lucky enough to attend Obama's first inauguration myself, but our friends who had been there likened this experience to that one.    

Waiting for the Pope!

I have to say that it seemed like that the Vatican unnecessarily drew out the process, but that's probably just because I was excited.  I suppose that an hour isn't actually that much time for the newly elected Pope to choose a name, think about what he'll say to the crowd, and get dressed. (Apparently, once a conclave starts the Vatican commissions new Papal garments in sizes S/M/L and also keeps various sizes of red shoes on hand so the new Pope will have something to wear, whatever his stature.)  Of course, I like to imagine that the new Pope might also need a few minutes to do some positive affirmations in the mirror (you know, to pump himself up by saying things like "You're the freaking Pope!  You're charming and smart and God's right hand man!  You've got this!") before addressing millions of people around the world.  And then, finally, he and the rest of the Cardinals have to make their way up to the second floor of the Basilica.    

The Crowd Waits (with cameras in hand)

About ten minutes in, we saw the lights come on on that second floor, and the crowd went wild, but it was a false alarm, because no one appeared on the balcony at that point.  After another ten minutes or so, though, the Cardinal Protodeacon came out and announced "Habemus Papam" (a latin phrase, which means "we have a Pope") to the crowd, and they hung the official cloth from the balcony on which the Pope would soon appear.  Everyone went absolutely wild.  The Cardinal also announced the new Pope's birth name (Jorge Mario Bergoglio), as well as his new chosen name (Francesco), and then retreated back into the Basilica.   

At this point, a wave of confusion spread over the crowd.  Everyone was saying, "who?" and  "from where?" and looking to the strangers around them to provide answers.  Since the media had never identified Bergoglio as a front runner, very few people had any idea of who he was.  Luckily, though, since we live in a modern age, almost everyone around us had smart phones, and so we were able to quickly learn that Francesco hailed from Argentina.  If any of the Italians in the crowd were bitter about this, they certainly didn't show it, although it may have helped that Francesco's parents were both Italian (so that many Italians can still consider Francesco a native).  

Habemus Papam!

Finally, after a lot more waiting, around 8:30 the newly elected Pope made his way onto the Balcony.  This time, people went absolutely nuts, and started chanting Fran-ces-co, Fran-ces-co over and over! Once he started speaking, though, a hush fell over the crowd.  His address was very brief.  He basically greeted the crowd, stated (a bit oddly, in the third person), that he was the new Pope, said a prayer for Benedict XVI, and then talked about a "road of brotherhood" going forward in the Church.  Finally, he blessed everyone.  The whole thing was probably only about five minutes long, but, since his Italian accent is quite a bit better than Benedict's, we were actually able to understand bits and pieces of it!    

Franceso!  (photo of video screen)

Once it was over, we high-tailed it out of there, for fear of getting "stuck" for hours in the crowd.  On our walk home, we were passed by a few cars, who would honk and shout things like "Francesco!" or "Viva il Papa" from their windows.  I think there is a lot of hope and excitement that the new Pope can lead the Church in a more positive direction following all of the recent scandals, so it will be interesting to see how that plays out.  

Perhaps due to divine providence, our dinner at the Academy had been moved from its normal 8:00 time to 9:00 (to accommodate an art show), so we were even able to make it back in time to eat, and swap stories with the other fellows.    

Like I mentioned previously, it took me a long time to wind down from the experience.  That might sound silly, since I'm not Catholic (and since I also actually strongly disagree with many of the Church's official views and policies), but it was really one of those times where it seemed much better and more appropriate to let myself get excited about others' excitement and the historic nature of the event rather than taking a cynical or political view of it all.  And, actually, I'm sure that someday when I'm an old lady I'll still be telling the story of how I once saw the announcement of a new Pope (you know, while drinking lemonade in a rocking chair on my front porch- somehow with a southern accent).

Alla Prossima,

Erin 

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Thus. March 14:  Yesterday was a rainy and smoky day in the Vatican:  first black smoke (around 11:40 AM), then white smoke (at 7 PM).  

The (Pope-less) Vatican

St. Peter's Square from Above (stock photo)

It's an exciting time to be living in Rome.

In case you've been living in a cave for the past few weeks, Pope Benedict XVI resigned on February 28th, marking the first time any Pope had done so since 1415.  Unsurprisingly, this event has stirred up a lot of excitement here in Rome (and all around the world).  Although there's been a huge media presence outside the Vatican, little is still known about several major issues such as (1) why did the Pope resign?  (2) when will a new Pope be chosen? and (3) who will be the new Pope?

Of course, that hasn't stopped nearly everyone from speculating on the answers.

Pope Benedict XVI Giving a Sunday Address (back in October)

As to the first question, the official reason given by Benedict for his resignation was his deteriorating strength in "body and mind."  This seems fairly plausible, given his advanced age (85), until you consider that none of the Popes over the last 600 years let their deteriorating health stop them (and, in fact, Gregory XII, who was the last Pope to resign, in 1415, only did so to end a debate as to who was the rightful claimant to the Papacy).   

Italian Vanity Fair Cover

Given this, there are now many theories/rumors in circulation as to the "real" reason for his resignation, including that Benedict had no real power and that attempts to get the Vatican bank out from under Mafia control were thwarted by his second in command, and that Benedict's involvement in covering up sex scandals ("gay sex rings" between priests) will soon come to light.

Some are also speculating that Benedict is involved in a gay relationship himself (although, even if true, it's not entirely clear if that would have played into his resignation decision).  This last rumor has mostly come out of the fact that Benedict (who now holds the title "Pope Emeritus") will continue to live in the Vatican with his (much younger and very attractive) secretary, Georg Ganswein.  As a hilarious side note, Italian Vanity fair recently ran an article about Ganswein using the headline "it's not a sin to be beautiful," and calling him the "George Clooney of St. Peter's." 

In any case, whatever the real reason, I imagine that many will continue debating it for a long time to come.  

Trio of Nuns Being Interviewed by Media

Unfortunately, the answer to the second question, when the new Pope will be selected, isn't any more clear than the first. Generally speaking, a Pope is chosen in closed meeting of the cardinals called a "conclave."  This meeting takes place in the Sistine Chapel, often over the course of a few days.  All Cardinals under  the age of 80 vote (the idea being that the older ones are somehow "too old"), and  the Cardinal ultimately receiving 2/3 plus one of these votes (which normally takes several votes) is elected the new Pope.

Normally, a conclave starts 14 days after the death of the last Pope (to allow time for grieving and for Cardinals to travel to Rome), but in this case, the timeline was a bit less clear since Benedict announced his resignation in advance.  The rules were changed to allow a conclave to start earlier than the 14 days, and the Cardinals have held meetings to decide when the conclave should start, but as of yet, it has not started, and no date has been announced.  In any case, at the very least,  I'm betting on a new Pope by Easter.  

View of St. Peter's Through the Famed Keyhole"

As to the third question, the media (and Vegas- yes, you can actually put money on the next Pope!) has identified several front-runners, but since the cardinals are sworn to secrecy, it's really anyone's guess who the next Pope will be. However, names that often get thrown around are Marc Ouellet (of Quebec), Peter Turkson (of Ghana), Antonio Tagel (of the Philippines), and Angelo Scola (of Milan).  Choosing a non-European (and possibly even non-white) Pope would be a huge departure for the Catholic Church, but I expect that many Cardinals believe now is the right time.  In any case, I imagine there will be some lively debates.

So, how will we know when the new Pope is elected?  By watching for the smoke signal, of course!  Every time the Cardinals vote, the ballots are burned.  Black smoke indicates that no pope was elected, but when the white smoke comes, you better believe that everyone in the city will be running down to the Vatican- including us if we're in town!

It's true that as a non-Catholic, I don't really feel any personal or spiritual connection to the Papacy, but, from a historical perspective, it's still a very exciting event to be present for.        

In St. Peter's Square

And, regardless of your religious convictions, the Vatican really is a beautiful and interesting place to visit (new Pope or not).  St. Peter's Cathedral is truly part of the Roman landscape, since it can be seen from many parts of the city, but it's grandeur is best appreciated from St. Peter's Square.  The Square also contains two fountains and a obelisk, as well as massive amounts of tourists (and locals) who pass through every day.

Nearby you can also find items to fit all of your Vatican/Pope memorabilia needs, such as the ever-popular Popener (Pope themed bottle opener) or the 2013 Hot Priests Calendar (yes, seriously).

On Sundays, the Pope (when there is one!) gives a Sunday address and on those days the Square is literally packed with people (you sometimes have to elbow your way out afterward), many of whom hold signs or flags and cry and/or cheer when the Pope begins speaking in their own native language.  (He reads the address in about six different ones- Italian, French, Spanish, German, English, and Polish.) 

From the Hall of Maps

You could also spend days inside the Vatican museum, which houses the Vatican's huge collection of art, including Renaissance paintings, ancient sculpture, and other themed rooms that are difficult to explain like the Hall of Maps.   Much like the name indicates, this Hall is a hallway filled with historical maps of Italy and the surrounding region.  (My bizarre love of looking at maps coupled with the beautiful ceiling actually made this my favorite room at the Vatican.)

Of course, the Vatican is also home to my second favorite room (sorry,  but the maps win out!), the Sistine Chapel, which was painted by Michelangelo in the 1500s.  You can't take any pictures in the Chapel (or really talk without being shhh-ed by the guards), but there's so much to take in that no one seems to mind (although I did mind the crink I had in my neck after staring at the beautiful ceiling for twenty or so minutes!).  Incidentally, Tom, his parents (Diane and Jerry), and I just happened to visit the Sistine Chapel the day before they closed it down in anticipation of the conclave, which was pretty lucky (since it will be closed for a couple of weeks now, I imagine).      

Stock Photo of the Sistine Chapel

I realize this post is getting ridiculously long, but I really could go on and on about all of the adventures Tom and I have had in or near the Vatican, including trying out our (now) favorite Roman sandwich shop, and the time I got locked in the Vatican bathroom (I'm not exaggerating- they had to call the fire department to take the door down).  But perhaps I can tell you more about those experiences next time- once we have a new Pope!

Alla Prossima,

Erin 

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Thurs. March 7:  It's warmer (highs around 60) but rainy and windy.